Sunday, April 5, 2026: Easter is upon us, and we chose to relax for the day. The morning was very peaceful and enjoyable. For lunch, we headed to Sweet Tee’s. For Easter, they had ham, turkey, and the works. We have learned to be there when they open to get in line. If you wait too long, some of the favorites get gone, and we don’t want to miss those. As always the food was excellent, and we had at least one more meal leftover.
Monday, April 6, 2026: We decided to hang out around camp today. We have a big day planned on Tuesday and wanted to be fully prepared. We headed out for lunch before we went into Brunswick to pick up a few supplies. We were going to try something new, Tabby House Brewing Company, but they did not open until 1pm, so we will try another day. The Lunch Box was open and ready to serve. The special of the day was a turkey and bacon sandwich on a toasted cheese bagel. We would have one of those and a chicken salad sandwich on a croissant with a side of pasta salad, which is very tasty. Filled back up, we headed to complete our errands for the day.
We spent the evening enjoying some YouTube videos about the areas we visit locally. Some of these are full of information, and we enjoy getting new ideas. Some are more historical, and we like to compare what they learned vs what we learned when we visited the same places. A tour guide, or docent, may give different insight on the same tours, as we have seen in the past. Still good, and valid, information but each has their own perspective.
Tuesday, April 7, 2026: We booked a five-hour tour of Sapelo Island with a guide. Sapelo Island tours makes it very clear that you need to take what ever you may need with you on any tours. You also need to be prepared to return with what ever you take, trash included. We worked hard to prepare ourselves with plenty of snacks and fluids for the day, figuring out which bags we would carry, and how to return with all our trash.
All packed up, we each had a bag to carry for the day, one full of sodas and water and one full of snacks. We probably had enough food and drink to survive a couple of days. Off to the dock to catch the ferry to the island where we would be looking for a tall grey-headed gentleman with a Jeep.
The night before, we had rewatched the very first Criminal Minds episode. A girl was kidnapped and ended up in a cage on a boat. Here we were, headed to a remote island where there should be little to no communication to meet a stranger. Oh well, that is how the world works today, and we are facing any fear – not that we were really afraid at all.
After a short ferry ride, we landed on Sapelo Island. Sure enough, a tall grey-headed man was waiting to meet the full load of passengers we were mixed with – a home school group, a group of girls scouts, some island staff, and us. Peter Lukken introduced himself and gave us part of his back story. Peter and his wife had had a relationship with the island for almost 40 years and built a house on the island about 10 years ago. After retirement, they moved to the island full-time and are enjoying the life.
Our first stop was the Thomas Spalding Mansion completed in 1810. The house boasts three foot exterior walls and two foot interior walls made from tabby. The house was built fortified and has stood the test of time and weather. Peter told us that Spalding had been inspired by Thomas Jefferson while the house was constructed. If you remember, Jefferson built houses that were balanced and would almost mirror themselves on each side. This house was very similar. We toured the grounds around the house but could not enter since the house was occupied. For $6,500 a night you can rent the house which can accommodate up to 30 guests in 10 bedrooms with 10 bathrooms. The price also includes three meals a day as well as access to the other island amenities. Beth really wants to see the inside of the mansion. She says someday we are going to book it for one night. LOL
It was at this stop that Peter shared that his wife, Miriam, is a descendant of original recipients of the King’s Grant in 1755. Her family has maintained property on Sapelo Island for nine generations. Later in the day, we would discover that the family also held numerous records that can help shape the telling of history on the island, a set of records that Peter has been researching on his own for many years. What a treat that would be!
Our next stop was Nanny Goat Beach. Walking out on this beach that truly looked almost untouched was amazing. The weather for the day was not great, and the winds were very high. The waves were crashing fairly hard on the beach with the tide going back down. You could tell the water had been almost at the shore not long before we arrived. There were two platforms that stood high off the beach. Angela at the campground had mentioned that the sand dunes used to be that high but the back to back storms in 2017 washed most of the dunes away.
Both at the Mansion and now at the beach, there were informational signs that looked almost new. We had passed signs for trails like the island welcomed explorers with open arms. What we learned is that the Georgia DNR welcomes almost a minimum level of visitors. They use the island for research and want to keep the public out of their project spaces. I actually understand how high usage and populations that don’t care could tear the place apart in a short time. We see how some people treat the property of others especially at campgrounds. So, the state is required by the agreement of transfer from RJ Reynolds to allow visitation to the island and they do, to a minimum. You won’t see any Visit Sapelo ads for sure.
After the beach, Peter took us to a treat not on the normal tour. In the past, we have visited the Angel Oak in Charleston which is estimated to be 400–500 years old. It is considered the largest live oak east of the Mississippi. The oak we found appeared to have the trunk mostly buried. Instead of the normal rise of the tree before the branches split off, we found huge branches that appear right out of the ground from a common area. If the base of this tree was revealed it would be one of the largest we have ever seen. Peter believes this tree is in fact the oldest and possibly the larger of the two trees. The tree is a site to see for sure.
Sapelo Island Light Station was our next destination. The station was built in 1820 to help guide mariners to the port of Darien just to the south. In 1850, a beacon light was also added to improve the approach. While the original light house was heavily damaged during the Civil War, the need for the marker prompted repairs in 1868. In 1898, a major hurricane again damaged the structure deeming it unusable. A third structure would be built in 1905. This third structure was moved to Lake Michigan. The remain original light house and beacon would sit unused for 93 years. In 1998, restoration of the light house was completed including powering the new light by the flip of a switch.
The Georgia Department of Natural Resources hosts UGA Marine Institute at Sapelo Island. The educational facility was created in 1953 and trains around 700 students each year. There is a grand complex on the island that has classrooms, auditoriums, and offices.
Continuing around the island, we visited Hog Hammock, one of the last intact, historically Gullah Geechee communities in the U.S. In 1965, Sapelo Island’s largest landowner, R.J. Reynolds, Jr., had consolidated the remaining communities located throughout the island into the area known as Hog Hammock, forcing them off their original land to this area. As we rode through, you could tell the original properties since the structures sat just above the ground, if not directly on the ground. As the properties have been sold and new homes built, the new homes are built on piers per the local code. The community’s sign states the population is 70. The reality is that only about half that number live there. Many empty homes may eventually fall into the state’s hand. Some may sell and become part-time homes for new residents.
In the community, you will find St Luke Baptist Church. Built originally in 1884, the church still holds services a couple of times each month.
Just around the corner, we visited the Sapelo Island Post Office and Long Tabby Education & Research Lab. Inside we found many treasures being studied.
Behavior Cemetery was our last stop before lunch. Behavior Cemetery is a historic African American cemetery located near the community of Hog Hammock. It dates back possibly as early as the early 1800s. The cemetery is still actively used today by descendants of the island’s original Black families. The area is kept secure due to vandalism over the years.
On the way from the cemetery to our lunch destination, we passed an air field and hanger. The hanger was built by the Reynolds family in 1935. Charles Lindberg was photographed with his plane on the island in the early 1900’s. The strip is still used as needed today. All it takes is a good bush hog clearing.
Lunch was at The Minnow Trap, a newer addition to the island serving up a full menu of food and beverages. Peter said the owner had always wanted to be a bartender so he opened this place. The menu had a great selection. Layla was out host and server. She and the cook were new to the restaurant. Peter was inquiring about the relationship between the two, and Layla made it very clear that he was not her boyfriend, husband, or otherwise. She just knew him. With order placed, we visited the small gift shop inside. Great place for the community and workers on the island to gather for meals. We chose a hamburger with fried okra and a BBQ sandwich with baked beans. It was not long before the food was on the table. Very good meal even though Peter commented it did not matter if it was good or not, it was what we got. 🙂
After lunch, we drove to Chocolate Plantation on the northern part of the island. As one of the oldest plantations, the site has participated in many parts of history. A working land for the original owners, a traditional plantation with slave quarters and slave staff that consisted of Gullah Geechee, to a dairy and agricultural facility, turning the area into a kind of experimental farming operation. In the end, RJ Reynolds established the Sapelo Island Research Foundation which ultimately ended up being possessed by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, forming the Sapelo Island Natural Estuarine Research Reserve.
On the sight, you can also find a house that appears to be almost modern day. Built in 1935, the house is a Sears & Roebuck house that is now used by the DNR. Peter said the Governor of Georgia has used the house recently. Those houses were certainly a deal to be had in the early 1900’s. An amazing view from the back (front) porch! You can see Darien in the distance.
We visited the largest shell ring on the island. The ring is about the size of a football field and has been carbon dated to be about 5000-5500 years old. The research on the ring finds that this ring is different than most in that the ring only contains two types of shells, and they have found no signs of habitation in the area inside the ring. Very neat find hidden on the island.
The last stop of the day landed us under one of the bald eagles’ nests on the island. Perched high in the tree, we saw the nest, but the weather apparently had everyone tucked out of site for the day. Peter said that some of the nests can be as large as a small car, such as a Volkswagen. This one was about half that size.
Back to the dock to catch the ferry, we parted ways with our host, our minds full of new information and even more to ponder.
The island hosts tours by the state, but we would highly recommend the personal tour that Peter Lukken provides. His insight into the history of the island is packed full of information you won’t find anywhere else. As I stated earlier, his wife Miriam’s relationship with the island provides him well documented unknown facts that answer many of the questions even the state may not be able to answer. You can book his tours by visiting Sapelo Tours.
Back to camp for for some Bingo to wrap up one good day for sure.